What is the Difference Between a Custom Suit and a Bespoke Suit?

A custom tailor will often loosely use the term bespoke when referring to a custom garment. Although the two ways to create a garment are siimlar, there are some key differences you should note. It’s best to do your research and know what truly is the difference between custom and bespoke tailoring.

What exactly is a Custom Suit vs. a Bespoke Suit?

The custom suit process begins by having measurements taken of your body and deciding how you want your garments to fit. Each garment is created specifically to these body measurements taken by an expert tailor. The custom suit or custom garment arrives finished and any fit changes needed will be altered by a tailor.

So what is a Bespoke Suit?

Originating on Savile Row in London, Bespoke means “to be spoken for” and brings a whole new meaning to the Power Suit.

A truly made Bespoke suit is the best fitting garment you can get.   Multiple basted fittings are done with an unfinished garment to ensure that the it fits perfectly in every way.  A basted fitting is a fitting with a garment that is loosely stitched together with white basting thread. It is called the basted fitting because, at this point, the suit is temporarily stitched together with white basting thread.

Although measurements had previously been taken, the basted fitting will be the first time you actually get to try on your custom suit, fitting notes can be made, and the basting thread can be easily removed for adjustments prior to finishing the garment's seams for final delivery.

We Offer Both Custom Suits and Bespoke Suits Made in Chicago

Esquire magazine has recommended us exclusively in Chicago for Bespoke Suits in their Big Black Book of Style.  Once your fabric arrives from the mill in Italy, or other origin, the suit never leaves Chicago.  Our Chicago Master Tailor will create an exceptional and unique bespoke suit just for you that is hand cut, fitted, and sewn, right here in Chicago.  We actually have clients that fly in just for our bespoke service.

Besides making the bespoke suit in Chicago, the primary difference is that the fabric is cut by hand according to your body and measurements, and the garment arrives basted, or loosely sewn, together. At the fitting we assess and see if any adjustments need to be made and the tailor does this as he finishes the garment.  Certain body types may require more fittings than others, but it’s truly the best possible fit if you have a difficult body type.

Our custom suit tailors works exclusively for us since we started in 2005. His team of cutters and apprentices make the majority of our custom suits, in addition to all our true custom shirts. When the garment arrives for a fitting, it is fully made, but can be adjusted easily. If we need to make any adjustment to enhance the fit of the garment, our Master Tailor does that here in house and then a paper pattern is kept on file for easy re-order.

How much does a bespoke suit cost?

Our bespoke suits made in Chicago are our premier line and start at $2795.

Top 3 Benefits of Choosing our Bespoke Suits

1. Superior Fit:

Fittings are performed with unfinished basted garments, allowing our team to perfect your fit during the process.

2. Handmade to Your Body and Preferences:

Approximately 50 man hours go into each bespoke suit from our Chicago Master Tailor and his team of cutters, sewers, and buttonhole makers.  The team pays special attention to each of your measurements as well as your personal style appointments.

3. Increased Confidence:

When you look good, you feel good. Bespoke tailoring brings a man to his full potential and allows him to focus on the task at hand, knowing he is presenting his best self to his audience. 

3 Groom's Trends for 2018 Wedding Looks

3 Groom's Trends for 2018 Wedding Looks

Newly engaged and planning your wedding for next year?

Our Designers have gathered the Groom's 2018 wedding trends there’s one commonality - go bold!

These bold looks remain classic and elegant but add a touch that will make heads turn. While some of these trends began in 2017, they’re carrying over to 2018 and are bolder than ever.

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Nicholas Joseph, Chicago's "go-to custom suit maker" in Haute Living magazine

Ronero-Rum-2-753x502.jpg

Haute Living magazine recently featured Nils Westlind, owner of Ronero in Chicago, who dished on his favorite eats, events, jewelers, and, yes, custom suits.  We, at Nicholas Joseph are delighted to be included and see him looking so dapper in the peak lapel, single breasted custom suit made in Chicago.  Bravo, Mr. Westlind!  Read more: http://hauteliving.com/2017/09/ronero-nils-westlind/643558/

Are you ready to see what custom suits from Nicholas Joseph can do for you?

Request an appointment

 

Six Essential Suits for Every Suit Wearing Man

There are 6 essential suits that every suit wearing man should have in their rotation to maintain versatility and be best dressed for all situations.  Our gallery features Zegna fabrics, woven from superfine wools in one of the most highly recognized mills in Italy.
 

  1. A Solid Navy Suit - Sport this to your next interview with a crisp white shirt and solid tie or stand out with a bright patterned open collared shirt for your summer weddings. Who said you can’t be better dressed than the groom?
  2. A Solid Charcoal Suit - The same function as a navy suit. Wear to work, going out on the weekends or even to an event that requires a black suit with a dark enough color. Ready for a twist? Have one of our designers help pick a tone on tone texture for something to set you apart.
  3. The Tuxedo - How many times have you rented a tuxedo? At that point, it is worth it to get one that is custom made to you that you will only wear a few times a year for your formal events! Katie, Jodi, or Rodney can help pick out a classic solid black or make a statement with a midnight texture.
  4. A Navy or Charcoal Plaid - The key here is to go with a pattern that will go from day to night. Make yourself memorable without making a statement. We recommend a subtle pattern that will pair well with a fun shirt!
  5. Navy or Charcoal Conversation Pattern - Have you ever seen a suit that looked solid from afar and then you noticed the attention to detail when up close? Make this garment one that people will talk about.
  6. A Seasonal or Statement Suit - The sky is the limit here! Pick a bright blue bamboo to make a move with a new texture or a grey windowpane. Our new summer patterns and fabrics will accomplish this look for you.

Ready to take your next steps to deepen your wardrobe?

Request an appointment with your designer

Wedding Trends for the Groom

Wedding Trends for the Groom

"Own your look" and make it one that will remind you of your wedding moments each time you put it on. This year, the trend of personalizing your look down to the detail continues with custom wedding tuxedos, custom wedding suits, and custom dinner jackets, Here is our roundup of what’s most popular with Grooms and in the media.

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How to Tie a Bow Tie & Happy Holidays

Looking dapper in a bow tie during your holiday celebrations is easy, knowing how to tie a bow tie is an essential gentleman's skill.

  1. Flip up your collar and lay the bow tie around your neck with one end hanging about 2 inches lower than the other
  2. Cross the longer end of the bow tie over the narrow end, and then wrap it from behind through the gap between bowtie and neck
  3. Now fold the shorter end of the bow over
  4. Pull the wider end over the folded part of the bow from step #3
  5. Wrap it all the way around back through the gap between neck and bow tie. Don’t pull tight yet, but create a loop in front of this wrapping. Take the bow tie and pull it through this loop
  6. Tighten the bow and give it a final adjustment to your liking and remember it should not be perfectly symmetrical, just like pocket square fold, the beauty is in the nonchalance of the added detail

The New Suit - SPLASH magazine feature

How did we make formal attire more fun? 

This week, SPLASH magazine is featuring our custom velvet blazer, custom shirt, and custom trousers in their article, The New Suit, updated formal look.  A custom blazer in velvet continues as one of the colder season's most in demand looks.  Personalize yours with all of the details you can choose from for your custom suits, and more.  Ask your Sales Rep or Request an Appointment.

Crain's Luxury Gift Guide features Nicholas Joseph Custom Tailors

Crain's Luxury Gift Guide features Nicholas Joseph Custom Tailors

Treat the man in your life to a custom sport coat and coordinating custom polo shirt made for his body and personal style. A dozen measurements are taken with 100s of fabric options and styling details to choose from, including long or short sleeve. Nicholas Joseph makes Chicago’s favorite true custom shirts, custom suits, and is recommended by Esquire magazine for made in Chicago bespoke suits.

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