Time to get serious about your fall wardrobe.

With the passing of Labor Day and the unofficial end of summer, attitudes start to change as much as the color of the leaves. Kids are back in school and the seasons of polo shirts and flip-flops are behind us. It’s time to get back into full work mode and time to start thinking about your wardrobe. For many, this week is going back to wearing suits and dress shirts after a more relaxed summer. As you start to do this, it’s time to look at your wardrobe and decide what needs to be updated. First, start with your suits. As the weather gets colder, you want to move into darker suits. I wear lots of beige and light grey in the summer; fall is all about dark grey, navy, and for something fun – brown. Keep the black suits for formal events or the evening dinner with a client. Solid or pinstripes, this is the time of year to get a new suit or two. If you buy something appropriate, you can wear it from September thru April. If you are looking for something fun, I think a brown suit with a subtle orange pinstripe is perfect. You can wear it with lots of fall colors and make a great statement next to all of the folks in their standard solid navy suits.

With the colder weather, you should also think about adding a vest / waistcoat to your look. A 3 piece suit is a popular look right now. It is a sharp look and you can ditch the jacket at a meeting and still be the best dressed in the room.

Speaking of what is popular, all of the major men’s lines seem to be talking a lead from the amazing “Mad Men” TV show. Retro 60’s suit styles are back: slim suits, solid white shirts, and skinny ties. Even 3 piece suits and a great hat can been seen on the streets today. It’s a great look if you can work it into your style without coming off as a hipster ‘wannabee’. You’re trying to make a good first impression, not a lasting bad impression.

Fall is great for colors such as brown, orange, dark yellow and dark green. I personally put away the pastels and go with darker colors in my shirts and ties in the fall. There is nothing like an orange stripe shirt with a brown and orange patterned tie to make your navy suit stand out.

It’s time to look thru your closet. Catalog what you have and do some minor updating. A good start is to get a fall suit, a couple of shirts, and a couple of new ties to add something different to your weekly wardrobe. I tend to retire one suit and three to five shirts in the fall and spring. If you have a favorite shirt with a fraying collar or limp cuffs – have the collar aand cuffs redone.

Lastly, don’t forget to add some great accessories with your fall wardrobe. A splash of color in a pocket scarf livens up even your most basic and reliable suit.

Next time, we will talk about accessories. Enjoy the fall and if you haven’t already, request your appointment to update your fall wardrobe today!

French Cuff Exec frenchcuffexec@gmail.com | cufflinkaddictions.posterous.com Twitter.com/frenchcuffexec

How to Wear Summer Suits

summer_suit

Just because it’s Summer Doesn’t mean we stop wearing suits!

With the weather getting warmer and more humid, there is a tendency to ditch the suit. Why deal with a suit when you can go more casual?  While many of us might not go with the casual Friday wardrobe of jeans, a tshirt, and sneakers made popular in the early 2000’s, many men ditch the jacket. Pants and a dress shirt replace the suit – and many skip over the tie. Why deal with all the layers and formality when it’s so hot … right?

Wrong. Just because it’s warm out doesn’t mean the suit gets locked up until September. No matter the time of year, wearing a suit is about dressing for success and to impress. What the summer months mean is it’s time for different fabrics.

My favorite way to deal with the summer heat is with linen/wool mix suits. Not as warm as a wool suit and with more structure (and far less wrinkles) than a typical linen suit. You can get these in solids and stripes. They are perfect for the heat of the summer and yet you still look polished and ready for that meeting or client lunch. Match with lightweight shirts and you are ready to look great.

The other popular way to survive the summer heat in suits is with seersucker. While not as popular as on the east coast, seersucker is THE summer suit fabric. Lightweight and very breathable, this is the ideal suit fabric to wear to that fancy event on a summer afternoon on the lakefront. My friends in Boston and New York and in the south live in seersucker in July and August. Men are best with the traditional blue seersucker. For women, there is white and pink seersucker – I personally think the pink seersucker with a pink French cuff shirt is an amazing look for a woman in the summer.

If you are going out in the evening for networking events or cocktails with friends, think about ditching the jacket and just wearing a vest / waistcoat. Cooler in temperature and a cool look, you will still be fashionable and you won’t be that ‘sweaty guy.’ Wear a great tie and a pocket scarf in the vest chest pocket and you will be the best dressed in the room.

There is no excuse to not be the best dressed in the summer.

French Cuff Exec frenchcuffexec@gmail.com | cufflinkaddictions.posterous.com Twitter.com/frenchcuffexecP.S. Any man who calls himself the best dressed in the room wears French cuffs. Rock some killer cufflinks and express yourself

Shoe Color Confusion

Gentlemen, There's been some confusion out there about the color shoe to be worn with your suits. This dilemma is easily resolved. A black shoe is ideal for a black suit...always. However, your black suit should only be worn after 6pm. In most cases, black is not suitable for the office or for daytime - it's far too dressy. For gray, navy or earth-tone suitings, please wear a brown shoe. It is most appropriate and looks fantastic! We also recommend an oxford, wingtip, or cap toe. Your options in shade of brown are nearly limitless and far more interesting than black. The general rule is lace-ups with your suits. A monk strap also makes a nice statement and is correct. We're not sticklers for rules...but we believe, before you break them you should know them.

Incidentally, if you insist on wearing your black suit during the day, may we recommend an ecru shirt, a tie or pocket square with earth-tones and a chocolate brown shoe. It softens the look and makes it more sunshine friendly.

And naturally, make those shoes shine!

PS: One of the best shoe shines in the Loop is at Altman's Shoes - and it's only $2 (allowing for a healthy tip)! Jacob, the shine stand owner's son, does a really great job and takes his time, you can tell his father taught him well - something to admire these days. Altman's is at 120 W Monroe St (at LaSalle) in Chicago.  (here's an Article on Altman's Shoes and Boots in Chicago)

The Summer Blazer

Lightweight, breathable and possibly cotton, linen, or tropical wool and half-lined, or unlined, the Summer blazer is essential for happy hour cocktails, dinner dates, fancy bbq's, and gatherings. Side vents will keep you cool and patch pockets will give it that laid back summer feel. Wear it with linen or cotton pants, or lightweight jeans with a collared sport shirt and pocket square and you're ready for anything. Custom blazers are available in a wide range of cloths, request an appointment to take a look.  Save more by purchasing in a custom clothing package.

Spring has sprung - men's spring essentials from your custom clothier

As the weather starts to change, it is time to think of purchasing a few spring essentials to spruce up your wardrobe and keep you looking fresh. We've compiled a brief list of Spring Essentials to get you off to a great start and would be happy to offer additional guidance in-person, on the phone, or via email. And when those April showers bring May flowers remember - a gentleman never forgets his umbrella, and always shares! Mid-Grey and Light Grey Suits: Lighten up your greys, perhaps add a pinstripe, and pair with a light blue or always classic white shirt. A trim custom shirt always does the trick along with a white cotton pocket square for a clean look. Why not spring for a new custom suit as well?

Patterned Shirts: Patterned shirts are huge for Spring 2010, especially in a plaid fabric. You can pick a bold or subtle plaid, but either way it is a must have. You can wear this look to the office or more casual with jeans on the weekend. Custom shirts are one of our specialties and we just received several great pinks and lavender pattern shirtings in from our Italian mills.

Solid or Small Patterned Ties: An easy way to complete a well-put-together look is to finish with a simple, yet perfectly matched and subtle tie.  This season solids, tone-on-tone solids (any type of pattern in one solid color...stripes, pindots, etc), and small patterned ties are in.

Pink: Try something pink such as a shirt, tie or pocket square is a great way to brighten up your spring wardrobe.

Sport coat: A sport coat is a great way to transition to the warmer months. Guys are wearing these with a scarf and leather gloves instead of outerwear, we love the look - and so do the ladies. It makes you look put together and casually chic. But make sure you don't just wear your suit jacket! If you decide to opt for a custom sport coat or custom blazer we are happy to help.

Trench Coat: A trench coat or rain coat is a essential piece in your wardrobe that will always be in style and help you avoid getting soaked in April showers. There are many different lengths, styles and colors to chose from. A great start is the classic tan or black coat in three quarter length.

Wing tip Shoes: Brogue wing tips are back in style. These tradition British shoes are very detailed and a nice change from your basic lace ups.

Caring for your Suit - An essential skill!

Most men do not take good care of their suits. After a long day of work they throw their suit on the floor or toss their coat on a hook. But the biggest mistake a man can make is dry cleaning his suits too often. The dry cleaner uses harsh chemicals that can damage the natural fibers of the cloth, weakening and thinning them. As a result, the material at high traction areas, like the elbows and crotch, will wear down faster. While dry cleaning is still the most effective way to remove dirt from a garment, it should be understood that a suit is usually not that dirty. Any dirt or dust that your suit could accumulate in a day’s time can easily be brushed off in the evening. Just hang up your jacket and pants and brush them with a soft bristled brush. This brushing can remove the specks of dirt before they go deep into the fabric.

If you brush your suit regularly after wear, it should only need to be dry cleaned twice a year. Also remember to hang your suit up every night and wait a day before wearing it again to let it naturally drape out its wrinkles. On occasion, you may steam your suit on its hanger to remove any last wrinkles with a portable steamer or an iron with a steam setting on low heat. If the crease in your trousers softens over time, this can be steamed back with an iron (on low heat).

Remember, your suit is an investment, so make sure to take care of it so every dollar is worn to the fullest.