Men’s 2016 Overcoat and Top Coat Trends, Fashion, and Styles

Fall weather is here, is your top coat or overcoat tailored and in style? 

Your overcoat is the most important and most visible item of your cold weather wardrobe.  We've put together images of the latest 2016 men's top coat and overcoat styles below. We recommend every gentleman has at least overcoat in grey or navy.  If you wear suits or trousers during the week, you should have add a second overcoat for variety, in either camel or a subtle pattern.  See more, Custom Overcoats & Top Coats

Plaid Double Breasted

Tan Bold Plaid Double Breasted

Camel Double Breasted

Heather Grey Single Breasted with Skinny Peak

Charcoal Wide Floppy Collar

Dark Brown Covert Coat

Charcoal Double Breasted Casual

Forest Green Single Breasted slim Notch

Heather Grey Double Breasted with Wide Peak

Brown Mandarin Collar Jacket

Charcoal Single Breasted Three Button

Navy Peacoat

Grey Single Breasted with Angled Pockets

Traditional Double Breasted

Fall & Winter Men's Wardrobe Checklist

Do you have all your Fall & Winter menswear wardrobe essentials?   Here is a basic checklist to ensure you're ready to Live Dapper during the colder months.  Add or subtract items for a custom fit wardrobe for your lifestyle.

• 1 Overcoat in grey or navy, add a second custom camel overcoat for variety
• 2 Suits: 1 flannel & 1 bright slate (the new “it” color), try a custom three piece suit in thick chalk stripe and wear the vest with jeans for a warmer, dressed up look
• 2 Sport Coats: 1 textured solid in a blue, grey, or charcoal & 1 subtle pattern like a glenplaid or herringbone
• 5 Dress shirts, 10 if needed the full work week:  white, blue, lavender and 2 fun patterns (try a dot, paisley, or chambray this season), try all custom shirts to ensure a consistent fit
• 3 Trousers: blue, grey, and tan plus 2 flannel pairs in any color
• 1 Long sleeve polo, perfect for casual Fridays or weekends, and can easily be worn with a sport coat
• A cardigan, v-neck, or shawl lapel sweater, try the latter for a more updated look
• 2 belts, one black, one brown; Try a custom belt for fun in suede or a with a contrast stitch
• 5 patterned socks in subtle colors, too bold is too last year
• 5 ties in smaller patterns to make matching easy: 1 of each base color- 2 blue, purple, green,  and red, try wool for an updated look
• Pocket squares: 2 white, 1 blue, and 2 fun prints, be sure they match your suits and sport coats

How long does it take for a custom suit to be made?

A custom suit can take anywhere from a couple of weeks up to a couple of months to make, depending on whether fabrics are in stock, where the suit is actually made, if your suit is true bespoke with a basted fitting, and how busy the tailors are.

If you are a new client, the general process should be to select fabrics, styling details, and be measured during your first visit. If your custom suit is made locally, you should expect to return for a basted fitting within the first 1-2 weeks, then return for a final fitting and slight adjustments 1-2 weeks after that. Overall, expect about 2-4 weeks total when the suit is made locally. For custom suits made overseas, the whole process can take up to 4-8 weeks total. Certain custom suit shops may also offer rush service for a fee.

For a custom wedding tuxedo or custom wedding suit, we recommend placing your custom tuxedo or custom wedding suit a minimum of 3 months prior to the wedding so that all fittings can be completed with weeks to spare.

At Nicholas Joseph, we offer two distinct custom suit makes:

The Made in Chicago Bespoke Suit

Fully handmade in Chicago with true bespoke finishes and basted fitting service, when preferred. This service generally takes 2-4 weeks, depending on client availability for fittings.  See pricing and package savings.

Fully Custom Suit

Fully custom suit made with fabric from the best Italian and English mills and client appointed styling details. This service generally takes 4-6 weeks, depending on client availability for fittings.  See pricing and package savings.

How much does a Custom Shirt cost?

Custom Shirt display at Nicholas Joseph in Chicago

How Much Does a Custom Shirt Cost?

Like custom suits & other custom clothing, the cost of a custom shirt varies depending upon fabric and craftmanship (labor & materials). When purchasing custom clothing, the adage, "You get what you pay for", certainly applies, but there are a full range of cost options available.

Who is Measuring, Cutting, Sewing, & Fitting?

If you are serious about your shirting, you'll quickly realize that it's about more than just the fabric and craftsmanship, it's also about the measurements, discussion about fit preference, and shirt tailor doing the cutting. After all, you could pay a thousand dollars for several custom shirts, but if the original measurements, the fit allowance, and the shirt tailor cutting the fabric doesn't have the experience, you will likely end up very frustrated - we hear these stories all the time from new clients' previous experiences with online, discount, or single salesperson custom shirt sellers.

Are they True Custom Shirts or factory made to measure?

There is a huge difference.  True custom shirts have specific measurements taken and a paper pattern is made specifically for each client.  Over time, multiple paper patterns are made a single client, for either different fit preferences or body change.  True custom shirts are hand cut by a shirt tailor, the fabric's design or pattern is lined up at the seams, and you'll notice by the small bump in the collar tip that they are folded, not cut, to create a luxurious appearance.  Made to measure is simply an existing size pattern that has small changes applied to it when the shirt is made in the factory.  All of our clients have noticed a huge difference between our True Custom Shirts and any factory made to measure shirts they have had in the past.

Are the Custom Shirts made with 100% cotton or better?

If you pay for a shirt to be custom made for you, it should be two ply 100% cotton at the very least - be sure to ask about fabric quality. Additionally, beware of many discount 'custom shirts' that are actually factory made to measure with poly-cotton blends or single ply cotton - they will look thin and inexpensive.  You can also tell the difference by checking the collars and cuffs for strong seams created by folded collar tips and strong interlining.

How much does a Custom Shirt cost?  Or how much should a Custom Shirt cost?

Our custom shirts start at $119 and go up to $450, depending on fabric selected. We have a dedicated family of shirt tailors that create individual paper patterns, cut the fabric, and sew exclusively for Nicholas Joseph custom shirts, and our clients come from around the world because they notice the difference - and value. Our custom shirts each require 12 hours of shirt tailor bench time, so in our opinion, a custom shirt that is decent should not cost less than $119 - and that's a tremendous value.

How can I learn more about Custom Shirts?

The best way to learn more is to make an appointment with a local custom tailor, or if you're in the Chicago area, Request an Appointment and meet with one of our Designers who will show you all finished shirts, fabrics, and design options.

Wardrobe Tips - The Short List: Organize & Simplify

Take advantage of the long, cold months to organize your wardrobe in 3 simple steps:

1. Assess - create 3 piles of clothing. a. Toss, for items that no longer fit or are not functional for you b. Tailor, for items that need a little adjusting c. Save, for your go-to pieces
2. Organize - donate garments to re-purpose & visit your tailor to take care of any fit issues. Hang the remaining shirts & trousers on matching hangers and use cedar storage for sweaters and shoes.
3. Maintain - only purchase clothing that fits you and your lifestyle. Your Sales Designer can help you determine what the best pieces are to grow or compliment what you already own. Also, consider investing in a steamer for under $100 to remove wrinkles quickly & easily.

Wardrobe essentials for every man in Fall/Winter:

• 3 suits: navy blue, grey, and flannel
• 1 classic sport coat with 2-3 pairs of trousers to match
• 15 shirts - a set for 1 week of travel, backup at home, and at the cleaners
• 1 overcoat
• 1 cashmere sweater

Remember, proper fit is essential and will make or break your look! For examples, see our Before and After pictures.

Buy a Great Custom Suit (and know why it's great)

Great Custom Suit

Modern gentlemen know that there are plenty of options out there for custom suits. They should also know what makes a great custom suit.We've put together an illustrated list of the most important elements that great custom suits should have, ours do.

These include the following, not that a custom suit should ALWAYS include whatever features you desire:

• Fully Custom Fit and Construction
• The Perfected Shoulder
• Hand Picked Stitching
• Built in Pocket Square
• Hand Finished Inner Details
• Working Sleeve Buttonholes, Standard
• Jacket Fit, Your Preference
• Trouser Hand Detailing
• Trouser Leg Fit, Style, and Comfort, Your Preference
• Trouser Heel Guard

Upgrade Your Look with Colorful Socks

Colorful socks are a simple way to liven up your look, whether it's an updated version of the argyle sock or a brightly modern zigzag. We just received new colors and patterns from Hook + Albert, stop in for an expert recommendation.

They don't have to be wild to make a statement. These are just some of the new accessories we're carrying.  Stay tuned, we're curating more just for you.

Do you want Hook + Albert socks?

Party Season is Coming! What to Wear?

Party season is around the corner and we’ve got you covered for every occasion, from the office Happy Hour party to New Year’s Eve. It all starts by knowing what kind of dress is expected. If you’re unsure, it’s perfectly reasonable ask the host by saying you’re excited about the party and want look great. Remember, proper tailoring is key to pulling off any style. Be sure your look is either custom made or tailored in the jacket body, sleeve length, and pant length. To keep up with slimmer styles, you can taper the pant legs a bit as well.

Here are a few of the latest looks for this season (see more in our Gallery):

Blue Velvet Dinner Jacket with Velvet Bow Tie

This look will easily win you the Most Debonair Award for your event, whether it’s black tie, formal, or anything else!  We custom make these dinner jackets in a number of colors.  Red or green are most seasonally appropriate, but blue is favorite by our clients and is always eligible for another appearance during the year.

Shawl Lapel Tuxedo or White Dinner Jacket

Update your black tie look with a shawl lapel dinner jacket, either as a full tuxedo, or as a white dinner jacket with black trousers. This nod to decades past men’s fashion will certainly enter a room with the charm of The Great Gatsby.

The Amazing Three Piece Suit

A three piece suit should be the most versatile item in your wardrobe, and easily leaves you feeling the most dressed up when the dancing starts and the jackets come off. You’ll still be looking dapper with your vest on.

Bold Sport Coat (not pictured)

For less fancy get-togethers, make an in-the-know fashion statement with a bold sport coat. Wear it with a solid black, grey, or navy pant and a solid shirt and either tie or open collar. If the party is more casual, keep the same look but wear a dark pair of jeans. Lighter colored jeans are for warmer months or a tshirt casual look.

Or, Be Festive & Smart with a Bow Tie! (not pictured)

Over the past year Bow Ties have made their way back into the well dressed man’s wardrobe. Try one out for a smart and festive look that will receive attention and compliments! We have many in stock from Chicago tie maker Lee Allison, stop in and we’ll give you an expert recommendation.

Do you want the perfect event look?

Aspire to a custom tuxedo, dinner jacket, three piece suit, or bold sport coat. Our Designers will give you the image you want and save you time.